I boarded a train in Moscow
The rain had started to pour
The wind was cold.
As cold and austere
as the Russian capital seems at first sight.
The Moscow Yaroslavsky railway station,
And its grotesque spire,
was Shrinking,
shrinking...
The dance was to begin.
Just like Matisse’s bewitching painting
Contemplated the day before
At the Pushkin museum.
Nine thousand kilometres
Roamed in that train cabin
For five days.
Crossing a wreath of deindustrialised towns and cities:
Kirov, Perm, Omsk, Novosibirsk, Krasnoyarsk
And all of their peripheral towns
Gloomy for the most
But bathing in the summer sun.
It now all appears to me as a long
Elusive
Dream.
Rhythmed by the sparse reading of Chekhov, Pessoa, Kant,
and the like.
The scrolling landscapes,
appearing at the windows
as a
long
continuous
Poem
With its unchanged beat.
Cendrar’s century old prose
Echoing
In my mind
The constant rumbling sounds
of the snoring locomotive,
and the broun-roun-roun
of
the steel-wheels
On the rails,
Cradled me all along.
It was as
if
Time
Had ceased to exist.
A day
could feel like a month.
Or like an hour
Day and night
just made one.
Whether the sun was fully shining
or if it were
complete
Darkness,
The locomotive would obstinately pursue
its frantic race
Towards the east.
Desperately trying to catch
The rising sun.
In the carriage
Most of us seemed
to have resigned
In front of nature’s majesty.
Staring endlessly
At the ample windows
of the corridor.
Those were the mirrors of
my personal
Memories.
Surging from my past
as the kilometres rolled
And as the cities loomed
And faded
Smooth unconscious
Flow
Spanning from
the Volga river
to Perm.
Then,
We dived
into the dense
Tundra
And the coniferous forests
Loosing ourselves sometimes
In the morning haze
The vast lake Baikal as
My only
Destination
5185km travelled
The Neva is now far behind
Just like my memories of it
And the memories of my walks,
at Dusk
Along its banks
Now muffled
By the forest wildfires
raging throughout Siberia
and their thick smoke
The Hermitage
and its countless
Canvasses bursting
in my
Mind.
Its figures
Populating my fantasies
The Dom Kino far behind me,
And all of Saint-Petersburg’s sublime architecture
Occasionally resembling some of Milan’s late 19th century palazzi
The Stalinist buildings and
Its glorious Soviet sculptures
Now
Missing.
All the socialist ideals and utopias that go along with it,
Lost in the Baikal.
Beijing is nearing
I am on my way
Now addicted
to the speed.
The distance.
…And the uproar of it all.
The moon above my head
Is still the same
The stars, scattered in the sky
The same.
5642km
Now arrived in the Republic of Buryatia
All of this distance
To find myself on the Square of the Soviets.
Facing a colossal seven meter tall
Bronze bust of Lenin.
Two workers
Ardently polishing the soviet leader’s head.
One more
Pompous
Remnant
of iron-fisted communism.
Just like the monument to Lenin in Moscow,
On Kaluga square
Now a popular spot for the city’s skaters
In Ulan-Ude,
More than halfway on my way to the Forbidden city,
My head is spinning
Like the earth on its rotation around the Sun.
From the hangover of the train and the scrolling landscape
The border now crossed
Ulan-Bator’s Peace Avenue unveils itself to me
Marco Polo
Under the beating heat,
Overlooking
The business district high-rises’ glass-facades
Dirty with dust.
On Genghis Khan’s square
A statue of Damdin Sükhbaatar riding his horse
A brief rest from communist relics, perhaps.
Before boarding the Trans-Mongolian
Crossing the Gobi Desert
And its endless expanses of sand,
The cold rainy nights
On Dostoevsky steps
Part of another realm.